“Stevie” Mandala Duster

After seeing some great circular vests and talking about them with a fellow crocheter last festival, I came home inspired to do something I’ve had in my notebook for a while – rework my Lotus Throw pattern into a mandala-based circular vest! Which I did, and actually I did twice, which is why this post is a two-parter – each with a different FREE pattern guide based on my FREE Lotus Throw design.

Fair warning, these have not been worked over with a fine-toothed comb as I do with my paid patterns. But hey, its FREE.

ACT ONE

Stevie6.jpg

The Stevie Duster was one of those gravitational crochet projects that start with a small directionless idea and sort of grows and develops a certain gravity that pulls in other ideas and materials until it is way bigger than I meant it to be! It also qualifies as what I call a “sweater hack” since a large part of the materials came from yarn that was rescued from a boring old sweater and restitched into a new form.

Stevie3

This first piece was a doozy, because I wanted a really earthy western influenced duster style jacket and I also wanted to use up some fingering weight yarn doing it – I ended up using my fractal plied handspun for the center and outer accent, some recycled cotton blend sweater yarn** I’ve had forever, and a DK weight cotton blend to fill in the gaps.And I made the only partially conscious decision to add a little Lannister influence with a dramatic pointed bell sleeve. I guess I’ve been watching too much Game of Sleeves. I mean, Thrones.

**To get your own recycled sweater yarn, see my extensive tutorial Everything You Need to Know to Start Recycling Sweater Yarn.

Both patterns a bit more like guides, since the basic circular pattern makes it easy to add or subtract rows, adjust sizing, and freestyle if desired (it’s encouraged.) The Stevie Duster  was made in size small, part of the outer circle worked on only the top half (to balance the length since the armholes are placed high) and the sleeves are tutorial style instead of written in stitch counts.  Since the Duster style coat was made with a bunch of homeless fingering weight, I have no idea how many yards it took total. Over 1,000 – otherwise your guess is as good as mine! So basically if you start this project with a specific store-bought yarn in mind, make sure you can get more of that specific yarn if you need to.

Stevie9.jpg

Stevie Duster

Notes:

5.5 mm hook, #1 or #2 weight yarn – the recycled yarn I used was around 17 WPI, which could be fingering or sport depending on which chart you look at. Be sure to test your gauge, listed below.

Gauge: 3.25″ measured across the diameter after Rnd 3.

Final Dimensions:
22.5″ radius (measured from center of motif to bottom edge)
50″ diameter (measured from collar to bottom edge)

Some terms:

4-DC Cluster – Work 4 dc stitches, keeping the last loop on the hook for each. YO and draw through all 5  loops on the hook.

Shell – 2 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc

Make Magic Ring.

  1. 8 sc into the ring, tighten. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round.
  2. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sc, ch 1) 7 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
  3. Sc into the next ch-1 space, ch 1 – counts as first dc with last loop on the hook. Dc into ch-1 space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 6 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Hdc in the top of the first cluster. This positions your hook in the middle of a ch-3 sized space to begin your next round.
  4. Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on hk, dc into ch-3 space 3 more times keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook – first 4-dc cluster made. Ch 2, work 1 4-dc cluster in same ch-3 space, ch 2. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same sp, ch 2) 7 times. Join with a sl st in top of first cluster.
  5. Sl st in first ch-2 space. Ch 2 – counts as first dc with last lp on the hk. Dc into the same space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps on hk – first 4-dc cluster made, Ch 3. (Work 1 4-dc cluster into the next ch-2 space, ch 3) 14 times. Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster.
  6. Ch 3 – counts as first dc, 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3. (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
  7. Sl st in the top of the next dc. (Sk next dc, 2 Hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc in the next ch-3 sp – shell made. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc .) 16 times. Join with a sl st in first sl st.
  8. Ch 6 – counts as first dc + ch 3, sc in the top of next tr stitch in the middle of the shell, ch 3. (Dc in the next sl st between shells, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
  9. Ch 3. Yarn over twice, insert hook into next sc and draw up a lp, (YO and draw through 2 lps on the hk) twice – one treble stitch leaving last lp on the hk made. Treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk – 3 lps remain on the hk. YO, draw through all 3 lps, ch 7. (In same dc as previous treble, treble crochet leaving last lp on hk, treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk, treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk – 4 lps on the hk. YO, draw through all four lps on hk, ch 7) 15 times. Join with a sl st in top of first treble.
  10. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Work 1 4-dc cluster in the next ch 7 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the same space, ch 2. 4 dc cluster in the same sp, ch 1*, dc in top of joined trebles, ch 1) 16 times, ending last repeat at *. Sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
  11. (Ch 3. 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster in the next ch-2 space*, ch 3, sl st in next dc) 16 times. On 16th rpt, end at *, dc in same st as beg ch-3.
  12. Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk, tr in top of next cluster, ch 4, 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4. ([Tr in top of next cluster leaving last lp on the hk] twice, YO and pull through all 3 lps. Ch 4, cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
  13. Sl st in next ch-4 space. Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 4 dc in same space. (1 dc in top of cluster, 5 dc in next ch-4 space, 1 dc in top of joined trebles, 5 dc in next ch-4 space) 15 times. 1 dc in top of next cluster,  5 dc in next ch-5 space, 1 dc in top of joined trebles. Join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.
  14. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch-1. Sk next dc. (Dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 95 times. Join with a sl stitch to the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
  15. (Sk next ch-1 space, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc in next dc, skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc) 48 times.
  16. Ch 3 in the same st – counts as first dc. Sk next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next st (1 hdc in the next st, sk next st, 1 dc in the next st, sk next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st) 47 times. Hdc in next stitch, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.
  17. Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. (Sk next st, dc in next stitch, ch 2) 95 times. Sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5.
  18. (Sc in the next ch space, ch 3) 95 times. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round.
  19. Sc in the same ch space, ch 3. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 3) 94 times. Sc in the next ch space, ch 1, hdc in the first sc of the round.
  20. Rpt rnd 19.

Armhole round:

  1. Ch 3 – counts as first dc in V-stitch pattern. (1 dc in the next ch space,  ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times. Ch 30, sk the next  6 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times. Ch 30, sk the next 6 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 63 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

22: Ch 3 – counts as first dc. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-3 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 9 times. 3 dc in the next ch sp, 1 dc in the next dc. 1 dc in ea of the next 30 ch sts. 1 dc in the next dc (3 dc in the next ch-3 space, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc) 63 times. 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3. – 480 sts (It has come to my attention that this stitch count, and therefore some of the other counts following, might be off, so please bear with me until I can check it!)

LotusDuster2.jpg

The placement of the armholes determines the size – measure straight across the shoulder blades to check your sizing.

  1. Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. Dc in the same st, sk next 2 sts (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the next st. Sk next 2 sts) 158 times. 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the next st. Sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
  2. Sc in next ch-1 space, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch-1. 1 dc in the same space. (1 dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the same space) 159 times. Sl st in the 2nd ch of beg sc+ch-3.
  3. (Sc in next ch-1 space, ch 4) 159 times.  Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round.
  4. Sc in the same space, ch 4. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 4) 158 times. Sc in the next ch sp, ch 1, dc in the first sc of the round.
  5. Sc in the same sp, ch 5. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 5) 158 times. Sc in the next space, ch 2, dc in the first sc of the round.

28-30. Rpt rnd 27.

  1. Sc in the same sp, ch 6. (Sc in the next ch sp, ch 6) 158 times. Sc in the next space, ch 3, dc in the first sc of the round
  2. Sc in the same sp, 6 dc in next sc – one fan made. (1 sc in next ch-6 sp, 6 dc in next sc) 159 times, join with a sl st in first sc of the round.
  3. Ch 5 – counts as first dc + ch 2. Sc in 3rd dc of fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2 (dc in next sc, ch 2. Sc in the 3rd dc of next fan, ch 1, sc in the next dc, ch 2) 158 times. Dc in the next sc, ch 2, sc in the 3rd dc of next fan ch 1, sc in the next dc, work 1 hdc in the 3rd ch of beg ch-5.
  4. Ch 4 – counts as first hdc + ch 2. (Hdc in the next ch-2 space, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2) 159 times. Hdc in the next ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in the next ch-1 sp, hdc in the 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

At this point the bottom of my duster was the length that I wanted it, so I switched to working the following rounds on the top half only so that the bottom wouldn’t be too long.

LotusDuster1

  1. Sc in the same space, ch 2 – counts as first dc. (Dc in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, dc in the same sp) 480 times. In first ch-2 sp of round, dc, ch 1, join with a sl st to 2nd ch of the beg ch-2.
  2. Sl st in the next dc and in the next ch space, ch 2 – counts as first dc with last loop left on hook, work 2 more dc in same space, leaving last lps on the hk. YO, pull through all lps on hk -3 dc cluster made, ch 2. (3 dc cluster in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2) 480 times. Join with a sl st to the top of the first cluster.

Work next round over entire brim of sweater.

  1. Sl st into the next ch-2 space, ch 3 – counts as first dc. 2 dc in the same space. (3 dc in the next ch-2 space) around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.

Cut yarn and tie off.

Sleeves:

DSCN4962.JPG

After Step 1 of the sleeves

Step 1. Attach yarn on the inside of the armhole, ch 2 – counts as first dc.. 2 dc in ea ch space, 1 dc into the base of all 30 ch sts. 2Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. For larger sleeves, work 3 or 4 dc sts into each ch space. Work the same number of dc sts into the base of the chain.

Step 2. Sc in the same st, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. Sk next st. (Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk next st) around. On the last repeat, replace the ch-1 with a hdc to position your hook in the middle of the space to begin the next round.

Step 3. Sc in the same sp, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next sp, ch 1) around. On the last repeat, replace the ch-1 with a hdc to position your hook in the middle of the space to begin the next round.

After a couple rows of this, size down to a smaller hook if desired. I sized down to 4.5 to make the sleeve snug on my upper arm.

Rpt row 3 until your total reaches 17 rows, or until the length reaches your elbow.

DSCN4964.JPG

Locate the ch space that is centered at the back of the elbow and mark it. (14th space from the join for me) This will now be  the increase center.

Step 4. Sc in the same space, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center. The middle chain space made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around. Repeat until short side of sleeve is about mid-forearm (9 rounds for me)

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3 spaces created in one chain space forms the increase.

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After several rounds of Step 4

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Side view – Step 4

Step 5. Sc in the same space, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the space before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the next space. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the space after the increase center. The middle chain space made in the middle increase is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around.

Step 6. Sc in the same space, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the middle of one increase before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the third increase. The middle chain space in the middle increases made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around. (Basically, put a 3-space increase in the center of each increase, dc + ch 1 in every other space.)

Step 7. Sc in the same sp, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the sp, ch 1) around. On the last repeat, replace the ch-1 with a hdc to position your hook in the middle of the space to begin the next round. – repeat until you reach 2 rows from where you want your sleeve to end (just past the wrist for me).

Sleevie1

Sleeve Detail. Witchy!

Step 8. On the 2nd to last row, 2 dc in ea ch-1 space, 1 dc in ea dc around.

Step 9. One the last row, 1 dc in ea st around.

Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat sleeve on the other side.

Weave in all ends.

And yes, I named it “Stevie” after the famous singer and songwriter, Sleevie Nicks. I mean, Stevie Nicks.

-MF

UPDATE: Here’s a better illustration of where I am measuring when I talk about armhole placement. I used a tape measure held straight across my back from the point where one armpit starts to curve in to the same point on the other armpit, which for me is 13″. This is the distance I placed between my armholes on the armhole round.
DusterMeasurement1.jpg

Update again! : Here are some photos of Steps 5 &6 of the ultra-ruffle sleeves, by request.

DSCN5630

After Step 5. As you can see, each of the spaces of the [(Dc, ch1)4x] increase have a [(Dc, ch1)4x] increase. For step 6, you will increase in the middle space of each of these three increases.

DSCN5632

Dc, ch 1 around the sleeve until you get the the middle (2nd) ch-1space of the first of the three [(Dc,ch1)4x] increases. (Dc,ch1) 4 times in that space.

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Dc, ch1 in ea ch-1 space until you reach the middle space of the next [(Dc, ch1)4x] increase – three times in this case. [(Dc,ch1) 4 times] in the middle space.

DSCN5636

Dc, ch 1 in ea ch-1 space until you reach the middle space of the third [(Dc, ch 1 ) 4x] increase. [(Dc, ch1) 4 times] in the middle space. Continue the sleeve by working one (Dc, ch1) in ea of the rest of the ch-1 spaces around.

It does hang kind of wacky at first, until you add more non-increased rows in Step 7 to balance things out.

71 thoughts on ““Stevie” Mandala Duster

  1. Pingback: Lotus Mandala Circular Vest | Morale Fiber

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  3. Thx for the pattern! I have suspended all other projects to make this; it is exactly the summer duster I have been looking for. 🙂

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    • I am making this in xl/xl. By simply adding 3-6 extra repetitions of round 29 before the armhole row. I’ve measured the width of my shoulders to be about 17inches rather than the 13inches in the pattern where I will place the armholes.

      I saw you comment and thought you might find my method useful.

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      • I don’t have an exact recipe for making this in larger sizes, but I outlined a few guidelines/tips in my comment (should be right above yours) to Marta Blaze. Also if you’re a Ravelry user, there are several good project pages for this pattern and I think a few are plus size versions – particularly good example is A Country Yarn’s extra large size duster which can be found here:
        http://www.ravelry.com/projects/ACountryYarn/lotus-mandala-duster
        There are no pattern notes for that one but she might be able to give some good tips if you ask.
        I think in general it’s better to move the armholes inward a few rows toward the center if you are sizing up, rather than increasing in the rows before, but I haven’t tried it that way so I can’t say for sure!

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  6. How gorgeous !!! I do have a ? though. When talking about “Locate the ch space that is centered at the __back of the elbow__ and mark it. (14th space from the join for me)” , the part of the arm you’re referring to – is it that ‘bony’ part,that we rest our arm on? (sorry for the ?,English isn’t my primary language).

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  7. Hello! This is absolutely gorgeous! Thank you for sharing! I am stuck on round 23 though. “Ch 4 – counts as first dc + ch 1. Dc in the same st, sk next 2 sts (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the next st. Sk next 2 sts) 158 times. 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the next st. Sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-4.” The math doesn’t add up for me. I have the correct number of stitches after rnd 22, but in order to complete those instructions 158 times, I would need over 630 sts, not 480. Unless I am missing something? I’m wondering if we should be skipping 1 st and not 2? Thanks!

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    • Hi Erin! I would venture to say that it is the numbering that is wrong, not the actual instructions. The final part of the pattern wasn’t checked as thoroughly as the beginning part, and that’s something I am planning on smoothing out and double checking the next time I work this pattern. For now, I would say that you should skip two sts, and just do it as many times as you need to to make it around and ignore the final stitch count until I can get it corrected. Thanks for the heads up!

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      • Thank you for responding so quickly! I will go through it again. I believe I counted that, in round 23, that I was able to repeat this section, (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the next st. Sk next 2 sts) 112 times, not 158, but I will check again. Thanks again so much!

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  8. I’m very confused here wish you had a pic of this step finished. I completed the Duster but, to me it does not seem to ruffle quit right at the increase. I am not sure I did it correct. Any help or a picture of the finished round would be wonderful thank you.
    Step 6. Sc in the same space, ch 3 – counts as first dc + ch 1. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) until you reach the middle of one increase before the increase center. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the next increase, work dc + ch 1 in between middle spaces. (Dc, ch 1) 4 times in the middle space of the third increase. The middle chain space in the middle increases made in this repeat is now the increase center. (Dc in the next ch space, ch 1) the rest of the way around. (Basically, put a 3-space increase in the center of each increase, dc + ch 1 in every other space.)

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  9. I’m on round 24. Where yours looks perfect between the arm holes mine is all puckered up and when I put it on it is very droopy. It looks like you had stitches between the shoulders only. Did you continue working in the round after you made the arm hole chains? I’m a pretty competent crocheter but totally confused. I took a picture but can’t post here. I will try to throw it on fb. You are a wonderful artist and this duster looks stunning. Help!

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  10. I’m on round 24. I’m a pretty decent crocheter but this has me flummoxed. It’s puckering at the arm holes. In your pictures it looks like you have stitches between the arm holes while I’m working in the round. Sent you an Instagram pic. Help oh wise one! Marta

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    • Okay! I see what you mean about the puckering in your instagram photo. To answer one of your questions, yes, you do continue working in the round after you chain the armholes. First question for diagnostics is, are you following the pattern exactly or are you making modifications to better suit your size? Also, what weight yarn are you using? It looks like your piece is right so far as I can see but you are right about the sleeves looking funny, so maybe we can sleuth this out, lol!

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      • I’m about 17 inches across the shoulders. Using noro Janome. 5.5 hook. It’s a DK yarn
        Armhole round: Ch 3 – counts as first dc in V-stitch pattern. (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 10 times. Ch 45 ( I have big arms) sk the next 6 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 15 times. Ch 45 sk the next 6 ch-3 spaces, (1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space) 63 times. 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch of beg ch-3.”
        For the next rounds I just followed the directions.

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    • Luckily I am making another one of these and happen to be in around the same spot you are! I tagged you in an example shot on Instagram for comparison.

      The good news is that I don’t think you are too far off from where you want to be, it looks like the only thing giving you trouble is the wideness of your armholes – if my guess is right, the “droopy”-ness you mentioned is occurring in the form of a weird slump between your shoulderblades, behind the neck? If that’s correct, it’s because the garment is expanding too much at this point to hug your shoulders properly.

      When you expand the distance between armholes, it’s better to place the armholes themselves further in (more toward the center) of the circle so that this doesn’t happen. The bad news is this will mean frogging, and the fix isn’t really straightforward – but a good example of this is the sister to the duster pattern, the Lotus Vest, which you can see at https://moralefiber.wordpress.com/2016/06/05/lotus-mandala-circular-vest/

      That vest has a 15″ width between armholes and consequently places them at Rnd 17 rather than Rnd 21 as the duster does.
      My recommendation would be to go back and place the armholes following the method for the Lotus Vest (using the armhole size recommended for the duster, not for the vest) and then work the rest of the duster pattern from there. Unfortunately I don’t know how many sts you would skip on Rnd 17 for a duster-size sleeve, so you may have to experiment a bit – it might help to take measurements of the armholes before you frog what you’ve got so that you can recreate the size when you try again.

      Hopefully that helps solve the issues! Placing the armholes further in will modify the end shape of the garment a bit (it will be a bit wider and little shorter) but I think you will be happier with the resulting drape.

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  12. Im kinda new at crocheting and I love this Stevie Duster! I dont quite understand R5, R6 at the end of R5 after the 14 4-dc-clusters, then 1 more 4-dc-clusters in the ch 2 sp, dc in the top of the first cluster, R6 ch 3, (counts as first dc) 2 more in same sp. But that dont look right to me. Am I doing something wrong or what? I have ripped it out twice & started over. Please help!

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  13. On the end of R5 dc in the top of the first cluster, R6 ch 3, ( counts as first dc) 2 more in same sp. I’m not sure if I’m doing it right because it doesn’t look right. Ripped it out twice.

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  14. HI I’m a larger sized woman and I really want to make this, but also more of a winter style. do you think it can be done in a heavy weight of yarn?

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    • That depends! I haven’t tried this one in anything larger than DK weight. I would say that if you are planning on attempting it in a larger size yarn, you might want to move the armholes to a round earlier than Rnd 21, otherwise the bottom of your duster might end up pretty low! I have also found that when making it in larger sizes, it helps to move the arms inward because it balances the drape of the circle that is the basis of the garment. Take a look at the sister pattern to this one, the Lotus Mandala Vest, which is worked in a #4 weight yarn and has the armholes placed at an earlier round – that post can be found at
      https://moralefiber.wordpress.com/2016/06/05/lotus-mandala-circular-vest/
      The Ravelry project gallery for the mandala duster also has some great examples of the garment made in larger sizes –
      http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lotus-mandala-duster/people
      If you do decide to make this project I’d love to see how it turns out and hear your thoughts!

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  15. Hi can you do this in acrylic yarn?? And is there a tutorial that I can watch and if so where would I find it please?? Sorry for all questions I really don’t know much about technology it gets very confusing. Thank you again. :-).

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  16. This is exquisite and I really really really…really…want to try to make it. I only have a smart phone, which I’ve named, “Duh”. Do you know how I may be able to print the pattern? I’d be happy to pay you if you would please mail me your pattern. Thank you

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  17. hi there, beautiful piece you have created thank you for giving it for free, I am having trouble with row 16.. in the photo it looks almost like a shell stitch but i cant get that from the written directions, it says ch 3 skip a stitch 1 hdc in next stitch 1 sc in next.. ect, is that almost like a solid row … really confused lol

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  20. Ok I am so stuck on round 12 I am new to this and I can’t seem to figure it out and was wondering if there was a YouTube tutorial for this pattern or if there was a way to show me how to do this round

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    • I am currently in the process of reviewing this pattern and I actually rewrote Rnd 12 because so many people had trouble with it. Here’s how it will read once it is fully updated:
      “12. Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk, tr in top of next cluster, ch 4, 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the tops of ea of the next 2 dc clusters, YO and pull through all 3 lps. Ch 4, 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 2nd tr st of the round.”
      I don’t have any video tutorials for this pattern yet, but if you read through the sister pattern there is a picture of this Rnd 12 that illustrates how it should look if you scroll down on the page here:
      https://moralefiber.wordpress.com/2016/06/05/lotus-mandala-circular-vest/
      Let me know if that helps – if you still have questions I can walk you through it!

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  21. Ok I am stuck on round 15 now (Sk next ch-1 space, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc in next dc, skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc) 48 times.
    Is the 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, all in the same stitch???

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    • Yep, it is! I actually have been working back through this pattern and rewriting parts of it that I think are confusing (since the central motif of this pattern was written years ago and I’ve learned some stuff since then!) and Rnd 15 was one of the parts that got rewritten. Here’s how the new version will read:
      “15.(Sk next ch-1 space. 1 hdc in the next st. In the same st work 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc. Skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc) 48 times. Join with a sl st in the same st as join from the previous rnd.”
      The hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, are all worked in the same dc stitch to form a shell.

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    • Not yet Heidi, I am almost done with the first pattern rewrite, and then I will need to check it again and probably take some more tutorial photos. Since it’s a very time-consuming project and I am currently in college full-time, I would say it probably won’t be out before spring – but I will definitely update everyone on my blog as soon as I complete it! 🙂

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  22. Hi thank you so very much for this wonderful pattern! I hope mine comes close to what yours looks like.(doubtful). I followed your directions for row 12, still stuck! What starts row again? I have only been crocheting a year or so. This is my first big project, as a beginner I am use to an asterisk stating what the repeat starts and ends from.sorry to be a pain.Thanks
    Coco

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    • Hi Corinne! Round 12 does seem to give people a lot of trouble, and I am in the process of cleaning up this pattern’s directions at the moment and that is one of the rounds that I rewrote. Here’s the new version:
      “Ch 3 – counts as first tr with last loop on the hk, tr in top of next cluster, ch 4, 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4. (Work 1 tr with the last lp on the hk in the tops of ea of the next 2 dc clusters, YO and pull through all 3 lps. Ch 4, 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) 15 times. Join with a sl st in the 2nd tr st of the round.”
      The repeat of this round is contained within the parentheses, to be repeated a total of 15 times, just like you would if there were asterisks in place of the parentheses.
      This round is a little complex and it definitely helps to have a close-up of what it is supposed to look like! The blog post for the sleeveless sister pattern to this one, called the Lotus Mandala Circular Vest, has an close-up of Rnd 12 if you scroll all the way to the bottom of the post (the two patterns are identical up to Rnd 16 or so). You can find that post here:
      https://moralefiber.wordpress.com/2016/06/05/lotus-mandala-circular-vest/

      I hope that helps, but if it doesn’t and you need more clarification please don’t hesitate to let me know! 🙂

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