Lotus Throw Pattern

An unusually warm spell in the past week has nudged my thoughts toward all things lacy and airy in anticipation of sunnier skies – although my native Midwest instincts recognize this mild front for the cruel annual joke that it is. Still, the promise of thaw is hovering nearer and I am hurrying my bulky winter projects to completion so I can start working on pieces that remind me of long days and strolls in nature. You know, instead of things you’d wear while, say, being eaten by a yeti.

Like this free vintage pattern by Australian Women's Weekly on Ravelry. Watch out for sharknados.

Like this free vintage pattern by Australian Women’s Weekly on Ravelry. Watch out for sharknados.

AND SO more to the point, enjoy this free crochet pattern that I designed in Spring/Summer 2014. The specs for this piece are very loose – it’s intermediate level, designed as an elegant way to use up lonely skeins in your stash. Color changes are variable and there’s tons of room for adaptation: As a worsted weight piece it makes a pretty throw, add arm holes and work in sport weight to make a circular vest, or use heavier cordage to create a doily rug.

LotusCoverNew

Click here to get the FREE PDF download from my Ravelry store!

Lotus Circular Throw

5.5 mm hook

Worsted weight yarns of various colors

Skill Level: Intermediate

Gauge is not critical

Make ‘Magic Ring’

  1. 8 sc into the ring, tighten. Join with a slip stitch in first sc of the round.
  1. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), ch 1. (Dc, ch 1) in each of the next 7 sc. Join with a slip stitch.
  1. Slip stitch into first ch 1 space. Ch 2 (counts as first dc). Dc into ch-1 space 3 more times, keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook (first cluster made). Ch 3. (4 dc cluster, ch 3) in each of next 7 ch-1 spaces. Join with a sl st in top of first cluster.

4.Sl st in first ch-3 space. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc into ch-3 space 3 more times keeping last loops on the hook. YO, draw through all four loops on the hook (first cluster made),. Ch 2, 4 dc cluster in same ch-3 space, ch 2. (4 dc cluster, ch 2, 4 dc cluster, ch 2) in each of the ch-3 spaces around. Join with a sl st in top of first cluster.

  1. Sl st in first ch-2 space. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc into ch-2 space 3 more times keeping last lps on hk. YO, draw through all four lps on hk (first cluster made), Ch 3. (4 dc cluster into ch-2 space, ch 3) 15 more times. Join with a slip stitch in top of the first cluster.
  1. Sl st in first ch-3 space. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 more dc in same space, Ch 3. (Dc, ch 3) in each ch-3 space around. Join with a sl st in first dc.
  1. Sl st in the top of the next dc. (Hdc into the next Ch-3 space, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc. Sk next dc, sl st in the next dc) shell made. Repeat 15 times around.Join with a sl st in first sl st.
  1. Ch 3, dc in same st, ch 3, sc in the top of next triple (top of fan), ch 3. (dc in last hdc of fan, ch 3, sc in next treble, ch 3) rpt 15 times around. Join with a sl st in first dc (not beg ch)
  1. Ch 3. Treble in next sc, leaving last lp on the hk, treble in next dc, leaving last lp on the hk (3 lps on hk) YO, draw through all three lps. Ch 7. (In same dc as previous treble, treble crochet leaving last lp on hk, treble in next sc leaving last lp on hk, treble in next dc leaving last lp on hk. YO, draw through all four lps on hk, ch 7) 15 more times. Join with a sl st in top of first treble.
  1. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 1. ([Work 4 dcs in a cluster in ch 7 space, ch 2] twice. 4 dc cluster, ch 1*, dc in top of joined trebles, ch 1) rpt 15 times around, ending last repeat at *. Sl st into beg chain.
  1. (Ch 3. 4-dc cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 2, 4-dc cluster*, ch 3, sl st in next dc) 15 times. On 15th rpt, end at *, tr in 1st st of beg ch-3.
  1. Ch 3, tr in top of next cluster, ch 4, 4 dc in next ch-2 space, leaving last lps on the hk. YO, pull through all 5 lps on the hook. Ch 4. ([Tr in top of next cluster leaving last lp on the hk] twice, YO and pull through all 3 lps. Ch4, cluster in next ch-2 space, ch 4) rpt 14 times. Join with a sl st in top of beg chain.
  1. Sl st in next ch-4 space. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same space. (1 dc in top of cluster, 5 dc in next ch-4 space, dc in top of joined trebles, 5 dc in next ch-4 space) 14 times. 5 dc in next ch-5 space, join with a slip stitch to top of first dc.
  1. Ch 3, dc in same stitch, ch 1, sk 1 dc (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) around. Join with a sl stitch in top of first dc.
  1. (Sk next ch-1 space, [1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 edc, 1 dc, 1 hdc] in next dc, skip next ch-1 space, sl stitch in next dc) 45 times.

16.Join new color. Ch 3, dc in same stitch. Sk next st, 1 hd in next st, 1 sc in next st. (1 hdc, sk next st, 1 dc, sk next st, 1 hdc, 1 sc) rpt around. On last rpt, hdc in next stitch before joining with a sl st to first st in round.

  1. Ch 2, dc in same stitch, ch 2. (Sk next st, dc in next stitch, ch 2) rpt around. Join with a sl stitch to first dc in the round.
  1. Sl st into the first ch-2 space. (Sc in ch-2 space, ch 2) rpt around. Join with a sl st in first sc of the round.
  1. Rpt rnd 18.
  1. Rpt rnd 18.
  1. Sl st into the first chain space. Ch 3 (counts as first dc in V-stitch pattern). *(1 dc, ch1, 1 dc) in the next chain space. Rpt from * until last ch space is worked. In first chain space of round, 1 dc, ch 1, join with a sl stitch to first dc of rnd.
  1. Rpt rnd 21.
  1. Rpt rnd 21.
  1. Sc in first space. Ch 5, (sc in next ch-1 space, Ch 5) rpt around until last ch-1 space. Ch 2, dc into the first sc of round.

25-31. rpt rnd 24.

  1. Sc in first ch-5 sp, 5 dc in next sc (sc in next ch-5 sp, 5 dc in next sc) around, join with a sl st in first sc.
  1. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 2, sc in top of fan, ch 2 (dc in next sc, ch 2, sc in top of next fan, ch 2) around. Join with a sl st to top of first dc.
  1. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *(ch 1, dc in the next ch-2 sp) rpt from * around. Join with a sl st in top of first dc.
  1. Sl st into the next ch space, ch 3 (counts as first dc) *(ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp) rpt from * around. Joint with a sl st in top of first dc.
  1. Sl st into the next ch 1 space, ch 3 (counts as first dc), *(dc, ch 1, dc) in the next ch-1 sp, rpt from * around. in first ch 1 sp of round, dc, ch 1, join with a sl st to first dc of the rnd.
  1. Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 2 (counts as first dc in cluster), work 2 more dc in same space, leaving last lps on the hk. YO, pull through all lps on hk (3 dc cluster made), ch 1. *(3 dc cluster, ch1) in next ch-1 sp, rpt from * around. Join with a sl st in first dc of the round.
  1. Sc in same space, Ch 3 *(Sc in next ch-1 space, ch 3) rpt around from *. Join with a sl stitch in first sc of rnd.
  1. Sl st into the next ch-3 sp, sc in same space, ch 4, (Sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4, sc in next ch-3 space) repeat around. Join with a sl st into the first sc of round.
  1. *(4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) into the next ch-4 space, sl st in between next pair of sc stitches, repeat from * around. Cut yarn and tie off.

Weave in ends with a tapestry needle.

If you liked my pattern, consider leaving some feedback (especially pictures of what you’ve made, I love pretty pictures) here on my blog, on Ravelry, or on Pinterest. If you didn’t like my pattern, feel free to yell at me via internet for giving you free shit.

-MF

2-16-15 EDIT:

I received a request via Ravelry for more measurements of the original piece so that they could estimate rug size – the following are my additional measurements + my recommendations for creating a rug:

After Round 10 –  Diameter of piece measures about 13 inches.

After Round 15 –  Total diameter of the piece measures about 19 and 1/2 inches.

After Round 23 –  Total diameter of the piece measures about 26 and 1/2 to 27 inches.

DURING Rounds 24-31 – This is where I would recommend customizing the size when creating a rug – Adding more or less repeats of Round 24. As written, the pattern measures about 37 ½ inches in diameter at the end of Round 31.

After Round 37 – This is where I would recommend stopping with the original pattern when creating a rug – the original piece is about 44 inches in diameter at this point. The next couple rounds make the edge of the throw just slightly ruffled, which you probably wouldn’t want for a rug as it would make a trip hazard. Add a solid edge of single crochet rounds here instead, making sure the add enough increases to keep the edge flat – blocking the crap out of it also helps with this.

Another note – When I use a very bulky material to crochet a rug, I like to finish the edges with a worsted weight so that the height change between the level of the top of the rug and the level of the floor isn’t so dramatic. This helps keep the rug from tripping people or getting messed up all the time 🙂

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7 thoughts on “Lotus Throw Pattern

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  6. Good afternoon. I’m Brazilian and I loved her work and would like to do it for me and my nieces. I copied and translated using Google translator (sorry if it’s unclear). I have doubts what it means – 2 hdc 1dc 1tr 1dc 2hdc. Here we use the terms correntinha – corr, high – pa. I really want to make these models and as soon as I do I’ll send you the pictures. Kisses in your heart. May the Lord brighten your brilliant intelligence more and more to continue creating beautiful things.
    Boa tarde. Sou brasileira e amei seus trabalhos e gostaria de fazer para mim e minhas sobrinhas. Copiei e traduzi usando o Google tradutor (desculpa se não está claro). Tenho dúvidas em que significa – 2 hdc 1dc 1tr 1dc 2hdc. Aqui usamos os termos correntinha – corr, ponto alto- pa. Desejo muito fazer esses modelos e assim que fizer te mandarei as fotos. Beijos no seu coração. Que o Senhor ilumine cada vez mais sua brilhante inteligência para continuar criando lindas coisas.

    Like

    • Hi there! I am so glad you like the design – I am not sure how the instructions translate, but the central mandala design in this is the same as the one for the circular vest in this post:
      https://moralefiber.wordpress.com/2016/06/05/lotus-mandala-circular-vest/

      There are much better pictures in that post which might be helpful to you as a reference.
      Here are the number of times you wrap your yarn around the hook (yarn over or “YO”) for these US terms:
      hdc (half-double crochet): YO once
      dc (double crochet): YO once
      tr (treble crochet): YO twice

      Hope that helps! 🙂

      Like

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